10+ Wardrobe Details in Famous Portraits That Served as Secret Signals to Everyone Who Looked

In old portraits, each element of the outfit—from incredibly high heels to snake rings and toothpick amulets—represents a secret code for the discerning observer. These seemingly innocent items revealed all secrets about their owner’s status, virtue, and even romantic intentions.

1. Chopines

Chopines were not just footwear but a symbol of social status: the higher the platform, the higher a woman stood in society’s eyes. This footwear emphasized that its wearer belonged to the realm of culture, not everyday life.

Chopines added 10 to 20 inches in height. It was a kind of visual metaphor: a woman is unattainable and should not come into contact with the filth of the streets — both literally and figuratively.

In portraits, artists consciously highlighted this element of clothing to convey to the viewer—a noble, wealthy lady is standing in front of you.

2. Pearls

Portraits of Elizabeth I are filled with visual cues that subtly emphasize the image she crafted. Pearls take a special place among these details—an ancient symbol of innocence and purity.

This abundance of pearls served as a delicate yet unequivocal reminder: she didn’t belong to any man.

3. The color black

In the 17th century, black fabrics were extremely expensive to produce because they faded rather quickly. Influential figures of that era created a somewhat deceptive appearance of modesty while at the same time demonstrating their wealth by using velvet, silk, embroidery, and lace dyed with one of the most expensive dyes—black.

4. Coral necklace

A red coral necklace with gold clasps around a woman’s neck could indicate her marital status, according to the author of the book Art Investigations: Images, Symbols, and Hidden Meanings in Art. If the clasp of the necklace was in the front, it meant that the lady was married. If it was on the left, she was engaged, and if it was on the right, the woman was still single.

5. The blue flower

The blue flower in the hair of Marquise de Pompadour is called a periwinkle. It was believed that this plant symbolized love and fidelity. When a portrait depicting this flower was given to a loved one, it was assumed that every time he looked at it, he would receive a declaration of love from his lady.

6. Jewelry in the shape of snakes

In the Victorian era, snake-themed jewelry such as rings and bracelets symbolized devotion to the spouse. A snake biting its own tail represented infinite and cyclical love for the partner.

7. The ruby ring

The position of the ruby on the middle finger on the right hand symbolized that at the time the portrait was painted, the woman had no children but intended and hoped to become pregnant soon.

8. Rings on the pinky

The man in the painting above is most likely a widower. Notice the gesture pointing at the 2 rings on the little finger of his left hand. It is assumed that they once belonged to his wife.

Customs of the time dictated that after a wife’s death, the jewelry gifted by her husband was returned to him so that he could use it in future marriages.

9. Toothpick medallion

In the same 16th century, it became popular to wear a toothpick as a pendant, which had the appearance and shape of a horn. This piece served 2 functions: it was an amulet and was used for its direct purpose—to clean teeth of food remnants.

10. Pomander

The pomander made its way into Europe from Eastern culture in the 13th century. It was a container, usually spherical in shape, that held herbs and fragrances within. The reason was quite prosaic: the scents helped combat unpleasant odors.

Pomanders were worn on a chain around the waist or neck, and miniature versions were sometimes attached to rings. The cost of this accessory was colossal, and it was considered a luxury item, so only wealthy people could afford it.

11. Pearl earrings

Pearl earrings were popular during the Renaissance, although attitudes toward them were mixed. On one hand, pearls were a symbol of purity, and on the other, they were often an attribute in depictions of the goddess of beauty and carnal love, Venus.

In Venice, for example, as reported by BeCulture, there was a period of time when pearl earrings were completely forbidden for unmarried girls and courtesans to wear.

And here are bewildering fashion trends from the past that people used to follow like crazy.